9/6/97

At this point I was going to leave our little group and the others were to find alternative transport to Lhasa, but buses to Zhangmu that I could get off in Tingri to start a trek to Everest were extremely rare, (about three a month) and Yeung pointed out that as the 4WD was going back to Lhasa anyway we might as well pay another 60Y each to go back there. I could hitch from Shigatse of course, but with the checkpoints involved, I'd get delayed to the degree that I might not be able to safely get to base and back again and then hitch to the border and travel to Kathmandu by the 25th of June; my cut off date for the flight home. So I decided to join the others in going back to Lhasa and try to get a bus leaving from there.

We went back the direct Shigatse-Lhasa road which was very fast and sported a checkpoint where the road crossed the Bramaputra. I thanked my lucky stars that I wasn't hitching back along here! Once we were back in Lhasa we went back to Sarah's old hotel the Banakshol. It's a great improvement on the Snowlands, being clean and willing to do your washing for the same price! My God the beds are comfy too. Sarah finally chose this evening to show us what she carried in her rucksack; all sorts of books, painting gear (well, she does have a Fine Art degree) and other assorted bits and pieces. How did she manage to carry all this on the Ganden-Samye trek? "Oh, I got the blokes to carry it" she replied with a smile.

10/6/97

Good news; there's a bus leaving Lhasa on the 12th, and I'm on it. Since I've got two days to spare before setting off for Everest again, I go to get a Nepalese visa, but unfortunately due to power cuts shutting the photo bureau I wasn't able to get it today. The others will go on to see Nam-Tso lake; on horseback, I'm informed by Angelo who has just returned from doing the same thing. I'd like to see them stagger back after a few days in the saddle, but 'tis not to be. I'll just imagine it as I slog my way around Everest when I wonder why I wanted to do this anyway! In case you're wondering why I want to go again, it's partly to see if I can go a little higher on the mountain and do some "medical" research for my friends Tony and Steve, and partly just to experience Tibetan trekking before I leave.

Went back to the Pentoc tonight to see Braveheart in the company of three Scots. I think I'll have to make a film about all those marauding Celts one of these days; of course Channel Four won't fund this one! Went on to JJ's where there was no sign of the police (it wasn't a Friday or Saturday), and hooked up with a load of educated Tibetans who quietly complained about the Chinese. I fear that they'll never leave unless they're thrown out, and it's looking less and less likely as time goes by. Anyway, enjoyed my chance to dance with whomever I want for a change.

11/6/97

Sarah announced she was going to write her journal this morning. The lads had said they were going to the Potala, but the groaning and throwing of water bottles when I suggested they got up persuaded me that this was likely to be later rather than sooner! Went for a jog again around the courtyard and up and down the balconies; the only other person doing anything similar was an American doing the Chinese exercise thing, which was quite a thing to watch. I'd seen the park version once in Beijing, but never seen a "tourist" join in except in fun.

The Nepalese proved very helpful about the visa once I'd got some photos together, and in between visits to the consulate I got some muesli, sausage etc for the journey to Everest. It's not quite luxurious fare, but it'll do, particularly as I tend to drink rather than eat on the hills. Yeung will leave for Hong Kong via Chengdu tomorrow, and Sarah, Gideon and Gal will be off to Nam-Tso by the local bus tomorrow; I shall miss them. However, this is the last leg of my magical mystery tour, and I'm in good spirits apart from a persistent sore throat. At dinner I slightly overeat with an excess of apple pie and custard (first I've seen of it for two and a half months) and I spend half the night throwing up; not a good start!

12/6/97

Saw the others off to the bus, and went back to wait for mine to leave, which it finally did at 11 am. With a mere 2 Brits, 1 Chinese girl, 3 Singaporean's and 3 Japanese it isn't crowded; until you add the rucksacks! It turns out the other Brit and his Chinese girlfriend (Met in the UK) are getting off at Tingri for Everest too, so I won't be alone after all. The ride down to Shigatse wasn't eventful, and for a change we went off to stay at the Tensing hotel rather than the Fruit. The former isn't as good as the guidebooks say, but it's all a bit irrelevant as we're leaving at 5 am tomorrow, as the others have to be at Zhangmu by tomorrow night.

The Singaporean's and I then go out for dinner at a local cafe. It turns out that they are all primary school teachers on a month's holiday, and they all speak perfect English because the language of instruction there IS English; I hadn't realised. I've heard a lot about how their local welfare system is the envy of the world, insisting that all save 20% of their net pay every year to pay for their retirement, but this lot are refreshingly non-sensible about the prospect. One of the girls, Mei, explained it to me in a form I could easily relate to. "I've got $70000 in the bank" she explained, "but I can't get at any of it until I'm too old to do anything with it"!

13/6/97

I'm not getting any better at sleeping in minibuses, even when it's dark. About 9 am we arrive in Lhatse for some breakfast that is extended somewhat when the driver discovers a puncture. After hitting the checkpoint, we discover that the nice Mr Penpa from the Banakshol didn't bother to get us Alien Travel Permits to go any further, but the policeman is thankfully honest and fines us all 50Y, the same amount it would cost to get one in Lhasa. Mei sensibly insists on us all getting individual receipts that we can all use as a ATP's in the meantime; just as well. Back on the road again for three hours until we hit the Xegar checkpoint, where we receive a large surprise. The Chinese girl is allowed to go no further without a permit, which is a real turnup for the books! She goes off up the road to Xegar proper to wake up the PSB from their siesta, while the rest of us have some dinner at the small restaurant at the checkpoint. Luckily, after some hand waving she gets her permit and we're off again. Mei confides that she will stay in Zhangmu for a day. "It could be interesting" she insists!

An hour and a half later we're at Tingri and the trekkers get off. First order of business; get something to eat, so we're up for the rice and yak meat. Second, we walk away from Tingri and the crowds of marauding children screaming "hello, hello" and "gumbi, gumbi" (Tibetan for pen). Someone should tell them that "gumbi" can have an other meaning in English, particularly for Americans, though their teachers probably wouldn't know that. Besides, I suspect that they probably train them; next year the kids will probably be begging for exercise books! After walking for half an hour we set up camp for the night. I drop to sleep imagining what I would do to the twit who handed out money, pens etc to these kids to begin with.

Tingri from the road	Brit/Chinese couple at Tingri