Q1. How do I get into Tibet; I've heard a lot about Tibet permits etc.

A. There are four main routes into Tibet; from the north along the Golmud-Lhasa highway (GL), from Kathmandu (KAL), from Kashi (Kashgar) in the west (KL), and from Chengdu in the east (CL). They have all have one thing in common; you don't need a permit because there isn't one! That being said, they'll charge you handsomely for this non-existent piece of paper; it's a catch all excuse. The four routes can be summarized thus:-

-GL; you can take the bus legally for 1600Y. It's a 35 to 60 hour high altitude journey, but an interesting experience by all accounts, though not reccomended for honeymoons! See CITS in Golmud. Alternatively, you can go "illegal" and hitch in from Golmud. There are five checkpoints you have to avoid; one just outside Golmud, one thirty k south of Golmud, two both south and north of Nagquo, and one just outside Lhasa. They all will send you back if they find you, so you have to avoid them; see my diary for further info. Going illegal is difficult; you MUST be physically fit. The going rate for the whole journey seems to be about 500-600Y.

-KAL; this route has a lot of checkpoints. Starting with Zhangmu itself with the passport control at the bottom of the town, followed by another at the top of the town, then another at Nyalam, an Army one a bit further on, another near Xegar, then PSB at Lhatse. There are two between Gyantse and Nagartse on the southern route to Lhasa, and one on a bridge on the northern route between Shigatse and Lhasa. I may have left one or two out as well! They are all hard to avoid, but it can be done. Officially you need Alien Travel Permits (don't tell Mulder!) to go between Lhasa and Shigatse (southern route) and between Lhatse and Zhangmu, though this is usually only enforced at these two places; get fined there and get a reciept, and you then may be able to go the rest of the way waving this! However, coming from Nepal, it's probably better to just get a cheap tour to go in on, then jump off.

-KL; no buses known of, so hitching compulsory. I met someone who had done this, and he said that there's a corrupt official in Ali who will let you through for 500Y. No promises though, this is all hearsay! If you can make it it would be great, particularly if you can get to K2 base camp near Mazar.

-CL; hitching here is also difficult, but I met a Singaporean who managed it. Getting the plane from Chengdu is probably the easiest way of getting in (1600Y), and it has the other advantage that you can extend your visa easily in Chengdu just before you go in, rather than trying to do the latter in Lhasa!

Overall, hard at times, but not impossible, and it can be great fun; no, I'm not joking, especially if you've done a few escape and evasion exercises!

Q2. How can I travel to China from Mongolia without taking the Trans-Siberian?

A. Have a look at the image here (163kb) of two crossing points pointed out to me by a local official in Dalandzadgad. The western and eastern routes are apparently both open now, but I can't promise the Chinese will let you through!
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